Mike came home from work a little early on the 22^nd, which is when we planned on doing our Christmas gift exchange here in the apartment, before we left for Macau.  Now, I had already planned on my expensive boots as being my Christmas present, but Mike found a few other things for me that proved to be useful.  I got a 2G memory card for my camera to replace my 512 that pooped out on me last weekend (it still works, I just filled it up while we were out and couldn’t dump the pics off.  Now it’s my back-up, as if I could fill 2G’s. . . ).  I also got a cute USB apparatus you can stick your memory card into, then plug into your USB port and automatically download the pictures.  Same as getting them off the camera, just don’t have to have the camera on, and is a handy carrying case for the spare as well. . .   Also got a mini-tripod, which I’ve wanted and needed for a while and proved as a handy handle during our days in Macau. 

Mike got a few things from Santa as well. . . some clothes he didn’t “need” (read:  his current clothing has not fell off his body yet, so therefore he needs no new clothes),  a USB powered missile launcher, a stocking full of goodies, and something that I can’t tell you about until I give my Dad his Christmas present (OMG, they get here a week from tomorrow!)

We listened to some Christmas music, watched the blinking lights on the pointsettia, then grabbed our bags and ran across the street to the ferry terminal with TJ to start our three day weekend in Macau.

A Brief History of Macau or National Geographic for Dummies. . . heehee

Like Hong Kong, Macau is a Special Administrative Region (SAR), giving it status as part of China, but not governed under China’s Communist fist.  It is located on mainland China southwest of Hong Kong.  It has a strong European heritage from the glory days when it was “discovered” by the Portuguese as a viable and profitable trading post between Asia and Europe.  After the British took over Hong Kong in 1841, most of the European traders left Macau for Hong Kong, and it became a quiet and quaint backwater.  It is, however, home of some of the largest and most powerful of the estimated 50 Chinese Triads (similar to the Mafia, Russian or Italian). 

Macau received its name from when the first Portuguese captain left his boat and asked the first local he saw where he was.  The man replied A Ma Gau, which means “place of A Ma” (the goddess of Seafarers).  The local was quickly slaughtered, the land proclaimed Portuguese, and the captain said, “I think he said Macau. . . “.  Or something like that, I’m sure.

Anyway, it’s money is the MOP, which is one to one with the Hong Kong dollar, and we saw very little MOP while we were there.  Its main source of revenue is tourism from gambling (makes more $/year than Las Vegas), as it is the only place in China where you can legally gamble (although they gamble everywhere, just not in casinos), and it has also learned how to make more land.  Macau used to have to small islands named Taipa (Tie-Pa) and Coloane off the coast, but now it’s one big island with “reclaimed land” in between.  This new land is called Cotai (how original!) and is being developed into a Las Vegas strip.   Up until a few years ago, all the 40 plus casinos in Macau were owned by one man, Stanley Ho, but two American companies Wynn and Sands have been given license to set up shop.  Crazily enough, as much as Asians like to have a drink or ten, none of the Ho casino’s serve alcohol while you are gambling.  Also, slots are a relatively new thing, and not the preferable way for the Chinese to gamble, preferring card and dice games.  They don’t go to a casino to “have fun”, they go to make money.  It’s serious business, in all aspects.

They do supposedly brew their own beer here, called Macau beer, but never saw any of that either.  Asked for it off the menu somewhere along the way, but they said they didn’t have any.  Okay.   No worries, though, we saw PLENTY of beer.

It is truly a feast for the senses after Hong Kong.  There are Taoist Temples from the Ming Dynasty beside baroque Christian churches (seen enough of those in Rome to last a lifetime) next to hilltop 17^th century forts and lighthouses, colonial palaces and Chinese courtyards.  And, of course, casinos.  And, soon to be more and more casinos. 

It’s a lot different than Hong Kong for sure.  Most people don’t speak English, and those that do are a little harder to understand.  But, it’s also FULL of tourists from HK, mainland China and other Asian countries (I doubt we saw more than 50 other Whitey’s the whole time we were there), who all speak pretty good English and were willing to help us if we got in a jam (which we really didn’t, had the most problem getting the taxi drivers to take us where we wanted to go, either because they couldn’t understand us AND couldn’t read a map, or just didn’t want to take us where we were headed, more on that one later).

FRIDAY NIGHT 12/22

We knew it was just a short hour ferry trip over to Macau, and we were told to arrive 30 minutes early.  As our boat was at 7:15, we left the house at 6:30, got to the departure gate, went through immigration, and were allowed to board the 7 PM ferry.  Arrived in Macau a little after 8, but took a considerably longer time to make it through immigration there.  Waited in line for 25 minutes for a taxi (later finding our Hotel, The Fortuna, had a free shuttle), and arrived at our hotel about 9 PM.  Seemed like a lot of rigmarole for an hour ferry ride, but whatever.  We were thirsty and hungry, and I had read in my handy Lonely Planet that there was an area on one part of the new reclaimed land (not the reclaimed land between the two islands, but actually on Macau) named NAPE which locals call the Lan Kwai Fong of Macau, so we headed down that way to start the evening.  After walking by empty bar after empty bar we finally found a restaurant with people in it advertisin g Mexican food.  Fine.  We went in, had a very delicious first meal of nachos grande, egg-filled enchilda’s, fish burrito, and Tilapia fried eggplant and potatoes with salsa.  Our waiter was Filipino and spoke perfect English, so we asked him why all the bars were empty.  He replied, “It’s still early,”.  By now it was after 10, so we asked him when they startedto fill up.  He said, “Oh, about 3 AM til 9 AM”.  Okay.  Obviously, we are going to be drinking alone. . .

Walked back over and did have a couple of drinks in a sparsely populated bar, then decided to walk over to the Fisherman’s Wharf area mentioned above, as we thought it might have casino’s or other drinking venues.  It was closed, but we took a stroll around it and thought, “There must be a pub somewhere between here and our hotel,” so started home.  And, there wasn’t.  We were “forced” to stop at 7-11 and stand around in the street drinking beer with the locals.  It was hilarious.  Only one area in the whole town that we ever saw a pub, and that was where we had came from.  Decided to call it a night, as we were off of the cultural walking tour tomorrow.

Arose at the crack of 10 AM to get downstairs for our free breakfast.  Met TJ about 11 and headed on out the door.  The Lonely Planet walking tour of Central Macau claims to be 2.5 kilometers and take about 2 hours.  Usually I find their time estimates to be way high, but after 2 hours of walking we were only about 1/3 of the way through.  Something was amiss.  Our dog’s were barking and we’d seen a lot of stuff.  We decided the author never actually DID the walk but was actually in the casino’s all day and the nightclubs til the wee early hours of the morning. . .

But, we did see some cool things.  I really liked how all the sidewalks were mosaics, the Mediterranean colored buildings and balconies, the façade of the Church of St. Paul, and the Temple of A-Ma at the end.  However, during our walk to the temple there was a small sign to the church of Penha, which after seeing six or so churches so far, we decided we could skip, and it wasn’t on the tour, only to find out later it was something we shouldn’t have missed.  DANG IT!  I hate it when that happens. 

Looking up, we could see we were pretty close to the Macau Tower (think Seattle Tower), www.macautower.com.mo for those interested.  Grabbed a cab to give our feet a break, and checked it out.  There was a $70MOP ticket, a $238MOP ticket, and a $888MOP ticket, the latter being sold out.  The $70 ticket brought you to the observation deck and the $238 was the “sky-walking”.  I asked what that was and was handed a brochure about getting all harnessed up and walking around the outside perimeter of the tower.  Uh, no thanks.  Bought the $70 tickets and proceeded to the elevator. 

Then we found out what the $888 ticket was.  BUNGEE JUMPING!  We watched a couple people swan dive from the top.  Again, no thanks.  TJ put my hand over his heart as we watched the first guy go, and I think bungee jumping better stay off his agenda of things to do before he dies, unless he WANTS to die.  You would have thought it was him out there on the rubber band. 

Had a couple beers up there to calm his nerves, and some Almond biscuits and Sesame crackers.  Took the elevator down and decided to try our luck at the Tiger Slots.  Didn’t take long for each of us to lose our money, so we decided to go back to the hotel and get cleaned up for dinner.  Actually, I decided to do that, and the boys decided to head to the bar.  I was to meet up with them afterwards.  Found them at MP3, the only people in the bar.  TJ smoking a big Cuban cigar and the two of them sucking on a beer.  Seems they were having a special, all the beer you can drink from 6-9 for $108MOP.  Oh boy, they hadn’t seen the likes of us, they were going to lose some money on this one.  About 8 PM the entertainment started.  Later in the evenings they have a floor show that involves a pole and scantily clad ladies, if you get my drift.  However, both TJ and Mike decided to take their turn around the pole on their way to the toilet.  Mike won hands down, although the girls probably could have beat him.  They weren’t on until after the drink special, much to the boy’s dismays. 

Drank our dollars worth and headed to a recommended restaurant for dinner called Plaza for Cantonese food.  Unfortunately, as it was a holiday weekend and we didn’t have reservations, we were out of luck.  Didn’t quite know what to do or where to go, but eventually fell into a Macanese (combo Macau and Portuguese) restaurant where the food was fine.  Couldn’t tell you what it was called, though. . . or probably even where it was! 

Off to bed, as we were off to the “Islands” tomorrow. 

Enough of quaint Taipa, decided it was time to go to Coloane and head through the brown wasteland depicted on our map.  Grabbed a taxi, and the driver was a trip!  We jump in and he says, “Merry Christmas!  Hello Americans!” .  He seemed to think he spoke better English than he did and was very eager to share some local knowledge with us, but unfortunately we had a very hard time understanding him, and have no idea what he was trying to tell us.  But, he took us where we wanted to go, which was Hac Sa beach, a mile long stretch of black sand with the Westin Resort at the opposite end of where we were.  Stood around and took a few pictures, I stuck my toes in then spent the next 15 minutes trying to get black sand off my feet.  We decided it was probably some other Chinese cover-up where there was actually an oil spill, but they were going to play it off as a black sand beach.  Not really.

Walking to the Westin seemed in order, not only for it’s rooftop terrace, but the boys wanted a view of it’s spectacular $300 US/round golf course.  As we meandered down the beach we could see some posts in the water with a small boat running around between them.  Tried to figure out what exactly he was doing, fishing or checking traps, but couldn’t really get a handle on it. 

Headed out front of the Westin to get a cab (figured this could not be a problem, being a five star resort).  A very helpful Westin employee told the cab driver where we wanted to go, and asked if he would wait for us (as we were told there would not be any taxi’s up there), and even offered to pay him double for his waiting time, but he outright REFUSED (all of this is taking place in Cantonese).  The hotel dude doesn’t know why the guy won’t go, so he asks the next taxi in line, and gets the same response. . .  Something is amiss in Smallville, and we don’t know what it is.  Upon closer examination of the LP, we find that if we can get someone to drop us at the bottom, there’s a FREE bus that takes you to the top every 15 minutes.  Unfortunately, the two taxi’s that had refused us had fled the Westin, without FARES, apparently afraid they would have to take us ghosts up there.  So, back down the beach we walk to where the parking area is, and many taxi’s.  As we are walking back we again hear the very sweet sound of a driver head hitting a golf ball.  Looking around we realize that where the guy we saw earlier “fishing” is actually THE DRIVING RANGE, and the posts were actually YARD MARKERS!  And, he was actually retrieving the balls somehow.  How cool.  Also on our way back we spotted some of those rare Whitey’s at the BBQ area with two HUGE slabs of ribs over the fire.  Kidding around, I sat down and asked what time was dinner?  They were Americans, but we didn’t stand around and chat, as we were losing daylight.  When we got to the taxi stand we asked the first guy to take us to the gate.  No problem, he was glad to get our money. 

We figured this would be a quick last stop before heading back to Macau.  Wishful thinking.  Was a GREAT track, really long, and it looked like fun, but we were told it would be about an hour wait.  Okay, no biggie, they had a restaurant and we were hungry, so we thought we could have a quick bite and then race.  So, we ate, sat around and watched a few races and wandered down to the track, to be told that we had about another hour wait.  Hmmmm. . . 

When it was our turn to race, being the only native English speakers we were separated from the group for our “instructions”.  We had witnessed these instructions a few times now, but had not been able to understand anything, of course.    It was comical, as the guy giving us instructions spoke perfect English, but we were finished in about 2 minutes, while the other group took about 10 to get theirs.  The very first thing he asked us was if we had ever driven a CAR.  Uh, yeah.  Funny, funny, funny.  Of course, we smoked all the locals out there on the course, except for one crazy guy in a plaid shirt that was like a professional.

Good and dark by now, about 7:30.  No taxi’s to be found anywhere, not sure how we are getting back to Macau.  Grab a bus back to Taipa and fall into a Italian Taverna we had spotted earlier for some Christmas Eve cheer, and you are not going to believe it, but the TWO DUDES WITH THE RIBS FROM THE BEACH ARE THERE.  They live in Taipa because they are building the new casinos.  Nice.  Had some beers with them, got properly introduced, and were assured it would be no problem to get a cab back to Macau, no matter how long we stayed there.  Ended up leaving around 11 PM, and decided to go to the Sands “for a little while”. 

Apparently, this wasn’t the wisest idea on my part, as I played Video Poker sitting at the bar sipping on a few Stella Artois’. . . CHRISTMAS DAY 12/25

The next thing I clearly remember is waking up Sunday around noon.  Uh oh.  Thank God Mike was there (heehee), but while I was retrieving my clothes that were strung around the room, I reached into my jeans and pulled out $1400MOP.  I must have done great on the slots, because all the rest of my money was in my wallet.  Met up with TJ in the coffee shop of the hotel around noon for a BUNCH of coffee.  He told us we all returned to the hotel at 4 AM.  YIKES!  What are we?  Rock stars?

Now, I tend to keep an open mind, and I’m not stereotyping here, but a lot of people will say the Chinese are rude.  That they push and shove and don’t know how to stand in a line.  That all they are concerned about is getting where THEY are going.  And, in reality, I’ve found HK to be a fairly courteous place to be.  Oh, occasionally some old woman might jump the line in the grocery store, or someone might slam into me walking down the sidewalk, but normally everything is okay.  HOWEVER, I’d had it with this dude and his wife at the ferry station.  It was a madhouse trying to get through immigration.  Not enough lines open, and too many people to fit in the hall.  And this guy and his wife just walk all the way to the front and push there way in. . . in front of ME!  Okay.  Whatever.  So, now I’m getting on the ferry and I pause for two seconds to stow my bag and the same dude nearly runs me over (now keep in mind that I’m my size and he’s NOT).  He was in that big of a hurry to get about 10 feet to where HIS seat is, and then he stops dead in the aisle.  So, I meanly and strongly SHOULDER CHECKED him as I walked by, saying as politely as I could, “Excuuuuuse ME!”.  TJ almost lost it, as he saw the whole thing.  Mike was ahead of me, and when I told him, he said it was rude.  And, he’s right and I feel a little bad. . . but not too bad.  Especially as when we docked him and his little wife were pulling the same dirty tricks.  It’s like, where do you think you’re going?  The ferry ain’t leaving until everyone is on it, friend.  Whether you are in your seat first or last, it don’t matter!  Okay, I’ve had my vent.  Wasn’t really keeping with the holiday spirit, though.

Home around 6:30, hungry again about 8 PM.  Headed down to Lan Kwai Fong for some Gyro’s at Ebenezer’s (how fitting on Christmas Day), and some Tuborg Christmas Brew at The Keg.  Lots of people watching.   Home early to bed, official holiday here on Monday (Boxing Day, silly Brits), but Mike has to work. 

All in all, a momentous and cool way to spend Christmas if you can’t be at home with your family!

HOTEL:  $3200MOP

GAMBLING MONEY NET GAIN:  Approximately $500MOP (HEY, it’s a GAIN)

MONEY FOR FOOD:  $800MOP

BEERS CONSUMED:  112 plus or minus 28 TJ may or may not have had. . . J